"Help Guide to Buying a Computer" For the "less-computer-oriented" people by L. Scott Caldwell December 10, 1996 Edition (Version) 2.01 Copyright 1994 - 1997 All Rights Reserved CONTENTS I. Special Thanks.............................................3 II. Introduction...............................................4 III. CharityWare................................................5 IV. Where to Find Future Versions..............................7 V. Trademarks.................................................8 VI. Disclaimer.................................................9 1. So It's Decision Time.....................................10 2. Chassis...................................................18 3. Processor.................................................21 4. RAM.......................................................27 5. Disk Drive................................................30 6. Monitor...................................................36 7. Printer...................................................44 8. Modem.....................................................49 9. Mouse.....................................................56 10. Multi-Media...............................................60 11. Software..................................................65 12. Protecting your Computer and your Data....................74 I. Special Thanks I would like to thank the most important people in my life for helping me write this "Help Guide to Buying a Computer". To GOD whom has always stood by my side and helped me when I needed a good swift kick in the pants. To my wife, Tanya whom has always supported me in my efforts even though computers, in general, frustrate her. She did most of the editing on this guide to ensure that "normal" people would understand it, and to make sure all my "garbled" ideas came together in an understandable and coherent form. To my Parents, for their support and understanding when I took apart the lawn mover when I was five years old and couldn't put it back together. They always understood my passion for computers and things that go "beep". Additional thanks goes to my father for his help with technical issues in this help guide. To my uncle Bill and aunt Winona for their help in the editing of this guide. Their eagle eyes helped to catch all those little mistakes I missed. To my sister-in-law Teresa, for her additional editing help and suggestions. To my cat, Jack for reminding me of the simple things in life, like playing when I get so frustrated by work. Thank you all for everything... I owe you so much. II. Introduction I have been involved with computers for many years of my life. I was raised around them and considered them to be as normal as many people consider televisions, radios and cars. I have always enjoyed using computers, working on them, upgrading them, etc. so it seemed only natural that I would choose something to do with computers as my life-long career. During my career with computers I have often been asked "What should I buy?" and "Do I really need this much computer?". That is one of the reasons I decided to write this "Help Guide to Buying a Computer". Computers have come naturally to me, but I realize they can be incredibly confusing for other people. I hope this guide will assist others in that ever confusing decision of buying a computer. This guide will cover mostly IBM and IBM compatible (compatible with IBM's original computer and software design) hardware and software and not Apple computers. However, since some hardware used by Apple, IBM, and compatibles is the same, some of this information will apply to Apple. III. CharityWare Copyright 1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell All Rights Reserved This guide may not be distributed for financial gain and/or this guide may not be included in commercial collections or compilations without express written permission from the author. This help guide is not free, but in fact, CharityWare. CharityWare is very similar to Shareware, because they both allow you to evaluate the product (in this case a help guide) for a total of fifteen (15) days, and pay for it only if you use it. However, the following conditions are specific to CharityWare and not to Shareware: - Rather than send me (the author) the registration money, you MUST donatethat same registration money ($15) to a "worthwhile" Charity (church, RedCross, AIDS research, etc.). That doesn't mean to donate it to your pocket! If you use this guide (even a small part of it), you MUST donate the registration fee ($15) to Charity. For every computer that is purchased withknowledge gained from any part of this guide, there must be a $15 donationmade to a Charity. I consider a donation of $15 a small price to pay to getwhat you want in a computer and to be an informed buyer. Doing anythingother than donating the $15 fee is a violation of the law. Don't forget you may be able to write the donation off your taxes. - You also must still send the following registration form to me (without any money, unless you're ordering a printed copy of this guide, are in a really good mood, or just have more money than you know what to do with). The registration form helps me to keep track of who is using this guide. Any comments about this guide (likes, dislikes, improvements, etc.) will assist me in my efforts to update and add new information. REGISTRATION FORM Help Guide to Buying a Computer - Edition 2.01 Copyright 1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell All Rights Reserved Mail to: L. Scott Caldwell 3101 Linwood Independence, MO 64055 If you would rather e-mail me the registration form (please e-mail the entire form) then send it to: scaldwel@sky.net. If you would like a printed copy of this guide (the latest Edition) then send $25.00 (US funds) along with this registration form to me. You are still required to donate $15 to a Charity, even if you order a printed copy of this guide. If you are ordering the printed copy of this guide, and would like the latest version of this guide on disk; then please specify the diskette size that is acceptable. ___ 5.25" ___ 3.5" Name: Company: Address: Phone: E-mail address: Charity you're donating to: Where did you get this guide (specifically)? Comments: IV. Where to Find Future Editions If you would like to receive future editions of this guide in an electronic format then you may obtain it from the following sources: - The guide can always be obtained directly from me. Feel free to e-mail meat scaldwel@sky.net, and we'll discuss getting you an updated version. - My Internet World Wide Web (WWW) site address is http://www.sky.net/~scaldwel. Follow the instructions on the first page toreceive the guide. There are other areas of interest on my WWW page so feelfree to look around. I have already started planning for the next edition of this guide, and I will be adding several new chapters, charts, and more. I really think you'll like it so look for it in the next few months. V. Trademarks IBM, PC, XT, AT, PS/2 and OS/2 are trademarks of International Business Machines. Compaq is a trademark of Compaq Computer Corporation. Intel is a trademark Intel Computer Corporation. Hayes is a trademark of Hayes Microcomputer Products, Inc. WordPerfect and Presentations are trademarks of WordPerfect Corporation. Microsoft and Windows are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation. All other trademarks are of their respective companies. VI. Disclaimer I wrote this guide out of the goodness of my heart to try to help people who thought they could use some help buying a computer. However, you accept this information with the understanding that the author (L. Scott Caldwell) makes no representation or warranties as to the reliability or suitability of this information for your particular purpose, and to the extent you use or implement this information in your own setting, you do so at your own risk. I've tried to make reasonable efforts within my means to verify this information. However, the information provided in this document is FOR YOUR INFORMATION only and is accepted by you "AS IS." Configuration(s) tested or described may or may not be the only available solution. IN NO EVENT WILL THE AUTHOR (L. Scott Caldwell) BE LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES, WHETHER DIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL OR SPECIAL, ARISING OUT OF USE OF OR INABILITY TO USE THIS INFORMATION PROVIDED. This guide may not be distributed for financial gain and/or this guide may not be included in commercial collections or compilations without the express written permission of the author. This guide must be kept together in its entirety and may not be separated, modified, sold, leased, etc. without express written permission from the author. If you want to give a copy to a friend then give them a copy of the ENTIRE guide (every single page) including all Copyright and Disclaimer pages. In addition, notify them that they are still required to send me the registration form and to donate the registration fee to charity. Copyright 1994 - 1997 by L. Scott Caldwell All Rights Reserved Well, now that I have the legal stuff out of the way, let us proceed to the good stuff. ---------- CHAPTER 1 So It's Decision Time So, you have decided you need a computer and it's decision time on what to buy. Do you buy a 486, a Pentium or a Power PC? Do you need a 14", 15" or 17" monitor? Do you need 8 or 16 megabytes of RAM? Do any of these terms ring a bell? Do you have any idea of what I'm talking about? If you're like most people, probably not. The first step in any major decision is to break the decision down into smaller pieces. Therefore, each piece of the problem can be attacked separately and won't seem so difficult to manage. A computer is nothing more than a bunch of pieces put together, and those pieces work together towards some goal. The same is true of your car, VCR, television, and even your shoes. Taking that into consideration, let's look at the problem and then break it down. The Problem: I want to buy a computer, but I don't know what kind I want, what to get in it, how much to pay for it, where to buy it, etc, etc, etc. Break the Problem Down: - I want to buy a computer. - I want to buy it from a computer company who will help me when I have problems/questions. - I want to pay a reasonable price for it. - I want to buy a quality brand. Now that the problem is broken down, we can look at each piece of the decision with more focus. The following is a series of questions you should ask yourself and think hard about, because within each of your answers lies the answer to your total computer buying decision. 1) How much do I want to pay for the computer (including printer, and otherperipherals (mouse, hand-scanners, etc), software (computer programs), etc.)? Price is not a good criteria for buying a computer, but knowing what your budget will allow you to spend will help you with your buying decision. Often, the only difference between a good computer and a great computer is less than a couple of hundred dollars. Service after the sale is your number one consideration, because there is enough competition to keep computer prices comparable. However, if you choose a company with a poor service record then you may just be out of luck. 2) How much will I use the computer in a given week or month? Knowing how much you intend to use it will help you decide on how much you really need your computer to do for you. In other words, if you don't intend to use it much for doing much or very often, then you probably shouldn't pay for a very powerful or full-featured computer. For example: If you use it eight hours a day then your computing needs may be more demanding compared to someone who only uses a computer two hours a month. Take this into consideration when buying a computer. 3) What will I use my computer for? This is the primary reason you're buying the computer so you must be honest with yourself on what you intend to use your computer for. For example: If you intend to do basic word-processing and only intend to keep the computer for a couple of years then why pay for a complete Multi-Media Computer? Consider the table in Figure 1a as a comparison of different computers suggested for different tasks. Computer How the Computer will be used Type Normal Programs Intensive Programs Games Multi-Media Intensive Multi-Media Intensive Everything 486 High-End Multi-Media X X Pentium Low-End Multi-Media X X Pentium Mid-Line Multi-Media X X X X Pentium High-End Multi-Media X X X X XFigure 1a - Computer comparison for various tasks. Note - See Chapter 3, 10 and 11 for more information on Processors, Multi-Media, and Software. Multi-Media is gaining popularity so mostcomputers being sold today are Multi-Media capable. 4) Where will I want to use my computer? This may seem like a strange question, but right now the largest number of computers being sold are "Notebook" computers. Notebook computers are portable, battery powered computers designed to be easy to take and use anywhere. They may be just as powerful as a "normal" computer that sits on your desk. If you're an active business traveler or just enjoy the freedom of taking your computer with you, then a notebook computer should be a consideration. However, be warned, typically notebooks will cost a fair amount more than a comparable "normal" computer that sits on your desk, because you pay for the portability. 5) How long do I intend to keep the computer? Knowing how long you intend to keep your computer will help you decide whether other questions are relevant to your computer buying decision. For example: If you know: - you're only going to keep your computer for a few years - you don't intend to add any additional equipment to it (more drives, cards, etc.), then the question of "How much upgradability do I want?" becomes irrelevant. 6) Do I want my computer to be upgradable or expandable at some point inthe future? Often the terms "upgradable" and "expandable" are confused so let me clarify them. "Upgradable" generally means to be able to replace with newer, "better" or faster components. Upgradable is most often used when referring to replacing the computer "motherboard". "Expandable" generally means the ability to add additional components (individual parts of the computer like memory chips, disk drives, tape drives, CD-ROM drives, etc.) to your computer. Unfortunately, most computer buyers today fail to ask themselves this question. If you intend to keep your computer up to date or want your computer to be able to grow with you, then the computer you buy must be upgradable and expandable, with parts from most sources (IE. local computer stores). For example: Let's say I buy a 486 computer with enough room for three additional disk drives (see Chapter 5 for more information on Disk Drives). I keep the computer for two months and decide I need additional hard drive capacity for my programs. Since I thought ahead, I bought a computer that had extra room for disk drives and I "expand" it by adding an additional hard drive so I have more hard drive capacity. Let's say I want to replace the CPU chip with a Pentium chip (see Chapter 3 for more information on Processors) then I would be "Upgrading" the computer. Generally speaking, buying an upgradable computer is harder than it may seem, because some computer manufacturers have complicated the process by introducing what's called "Proprietary Upgradability". Proprietary Upgradability is a fancy term that simply means if you intend to upgrade the computer then you must buy the upgrade parts from your computer manufacturer, because no one else makes the parts. For example: Compaq designs it's DeskPro M series to be processor upgradable, but you must buy Compaq's proprietary plug-in-board to actually upgrade the computer. Unfortunately, more and more computer manufacturers are choosing Proprietary Upgradability, because the computers cost less to produce. When you take into consideration the cost of upgrading by using these companies' proprietary methods, you're usually better off just going out and buying a new computer! Yes, you read right! A great rule of thumb for upgrading (I said Upgrade, not Expand) your computer is, "don't spend more than 40 percent of what it would cost to purchase a new computer that's twice as fast". For example, if you have a 486DX-33, and a new Pentium 75Mhz costs $1500, don't spend more than $600 to upgrade your current computer. 7) What software do I intend to use on my computer? Virtually all computers sold today come with basic software such as DOS and Microsoft Windows plus a number of manufacturers are including other software with the computers. They may include word processors, spreadsheet software, graphics programs, games, etc. For more information on Software programs, see Chapter 11. This is an advantage for you because you pay less for the software (they figure the software cost into the total computer price) and the computer companies install the software for you at the factory. Unfortunately, there are sometimes negatives to the software being installed at the factory. For example: The manufacturers don't always install the most current version of the software and don't always include the original diskettes with the computer. The original diskettes must be purchased separately. Although the computer companies usually offer several programs or packages of programs to choose from, when you buy your computer don't forget to ask about other offered software. There may be a software program you want or need that they will substitute for a program that normally comes with the computer. 8) Who will use the computer? Knowing who will use the computer before you buy it will allow you to be a more critical buyer. For example: Let's say your five-year-old daughter will be using the computer for educational purposes. If your daughter's hand is too small for the mouse, she may become frustrated and lose interest. So much for your investment. However, if you thought ahead then you would have purchased a computer with a smaller mouse so she could easily use it. Pay attention to size, shape, etc, because even small changes can greatly affect your computer experience. Don't be afraid to go out to a local computer store and get some real "hands-on" experience before you buy. 9) Where will be computer be in your home or office? This is another question most people forget to consider. Knowing how much space you have and where it is can help you buy a computer to meet your living style. For example: If you have limited space then you shouldn't buy a large computer. If you have limited desktop area then you should look more for a tower design (a computer that can stand safely on the floor next to the desk). Chapter 2 shows several computer designs you can choose from. It is important for you to find a strong, stable place for the computer to sit, because you wouldn't want it to fall. 10) What should my computer area look or feel like? This is a very important area. You should position your computer monitor so it is at a comfortable viewing height. Your keyboard should be at a comfortable typing height (usually 26 to 30 inches for most adults). If you have decided to buy a desk then please try lots of them because no two desks will feel the same. A good desk will give you and your computer years of comfortable use while a bad desk may make your computer experience miserable. 11) Where should I buy the computer? I hate seeing those "Wholesale Outlet" advertisements, because they talk about some computer and then make it sound so great. However, if you look at the fine print, you can see the computer they're selling usually leaves a lot to be desired. They all- too-often leave out or don't tell you some very important information that you should know and consider, so be careful and always compare what you know to the fine print. Remember, price isn't everything and if the price seems too good to be true then it probably is! 12) If I have a computer now, how do I sell it? Since money is money and selling your existing computer may help you afford your new computer. I suggest the following: - Place advertisements using electronic mail (e-mail) on a local computer Bulletin Board System (BBS) - Look in the newspaper before you place the advertisement. There will likely be other computers being advertised and you can compare prices to make sure yours is in-line with the other computers - Word of mouth (ask friends, relatives, co-workers, etc.) ---------- CHAPTER 2 Chassis The computer "Chassis" is the metal (partially plastic) box that holds all of the "guts" of the computer including its disk drives, RAM, CPU, etc. The chassis can be made in all sizes and shapes and each has it's own advantages and disadvantages. Fortunately, there are several standard sizes that I'll explain below. Full Tower Chassis The Full Tower Chassis is the largest chassis design and allows for the most upgradability and expandability, but it also cost more than any other chassis design. This chassis is intended to stand on the floor next to a desk so it is out of the way. If you intend to add lots of drives (see Chapter 5), then you'll want this chassis. Mini Tower Chassis The Mini Tower Chassis has quickly become the chassisof choice. It can be placed on the floor next to the desk orcan be placed on the desktop because of it's small size. Itoffers more space for drives and costs less than mostdesktop and slimline chassis. This is the chassis I would recommend for users that don't foresee adding more thanone or two additional drives and want an easy-to-live withchassis design. Desktop Chassis The Desktop Chassis is still the most common type of chassis sold, and it has been around ever since IBM's very first PC . This chassis generally has less expansion capability than the mini-tower chassis and is intended tosit on the desktop (hence its name). Slimline Chassis The Slimline Chassis is the smallest chassis, but it greatly limits your expandability or upgradability. Manufacturers that use this chassis design usually design these computers to be proprietary (not standard), so fixing, upgrading or expanding is either relatively expensive or not possible at all. Be leery of this chassisbecause you're still better off with a mini-tower chassis. ---------- CHAPTER 3 Processor Understanding CPU Generations Computer processors, also known as the CPUs (Central Processing Units), are the heart and soul of every computer. Without the CPU the computer doesn't think, and therefore, it doesn't work. Intel (I know you have seen their ads on TV about the "Intel inside" idea) has been supplying IBM and most IBM compatible (compatible with IBM's original computer and software design) computer makers with CPUs since their beginning. Therefore, Intel sets the standard when it comes to IBM compatible CPUs and that's what I will explain to you. The following chart shows each generation of CPU used in IBM and compatible computers. Intel named each generation of its CPU with a number, and often these CPU chips are referred to by the last three digits of their number. For example: an 80386 is referred to as a 386. The 80486 is a 486 and so on. CPU type CPU Generation Typical Speeds 8088 First 4.77Mhz 8086 Revised First 4.77Mhz 80286 Second 6Mhz-16Mhz 80386 Third 16Mhz-40Mhz 80486 Fourth 25Mhz-120Mhz Pentium * Fifth 60Mhz-150Mhz Note -The CPU types are numbers created by Intel, but Intel calls their 80586 chip a Pentium, because they wanted to copyright the CPU name. I have left certain technical information out of the above example, for reasons of clarity. Currently, only 486 and Pentium CPUs are sold in NEW computers so don't expect to see any of the lower version CPUs in new computers. If you do, walk away . Understanding CPU Speeds (MHz) The MHz (pronounced meg' hurts') of a computer CPU is how fast (how much it gets done) the computer runs. Plain and simple, the larger the MHz number; the faster (the more powerful) the computer. For example: a 33Mhz 486 is Figure 2a - The above processor numbers are estimates and intended to show the differences in processor speeds. I chose not to include the Pentium 60Mhz and 66Mhz processors because a Pentium 75Mhz is more powerful for the same money. faster than a 25Mhz 486. However, that doesn't mean a 66Mhz 486 is faster than a 60Mhz Pentium. Each generation of CPU is designed to be faster than the previous generation and that's why a 60Mhz Pentium is roughly 15%-20% faster than a 66Mhz 486. Figure 2a gives a graphical view of how CPU's have become faster over the years. IBM's very first Personal Computer, the IBM PC, is considered the basis for all CPU speed comparisons so I've included it in the Figure. Look at how much faster newer computers are compared to the original IBM PC back in 1981. The following shows the price ranges of current processors. If you would like a more technical explanation of the differences between these processors, see below. Pentium 150Mhz Pentium 133Mhz High-End Pentium 120Mhz Pentium 100Mhz Middle-Line Pentium 90Mhz Pentium 75Mhz Pentium 66Mhz Pentium 60Mhz 486 DX4-120Mhz 486 DX4-100Mhz Low-End 486 DX2-80Mhz 486 DX4-75Mhz 486 DX2-66Mhz Understanding The Difference Between the SX, DX, DX2, and DX4 CPUs When Intel introduced the first 386s back in 1985, they also introduced the computer industry to two new terms, DX and SX. The letters aren't abbreviations for anything (or at least Intel never admitted it), but they do tell you a lot about a CPU's speed. In 386 terms, there is a large difference between DX and SX CPUs. When comparing processing power, a 386 DX will flat-out run circles around a 386 SX. A couple of years later Intel introduced the 486 and changed the definitions of DX and SX. Generally speaking, a 486 DX is equal in processing power to a 486 SX. However, the big area where a 486 DX outperforms a 486 SX is when the CPU has to do math calculations. For example: If you use a program that does lots of math calculations (such as CAD, Lotus, etc.), then a 486 DX will get the job done considerably faster than a 486 SX. Unfortunately, I need to get "technical" for just a moment to explain a very important aspect of CPUs. Ever since the very first IBM PC, computers have been HEAVILY dependent on what is called a Clock chip. For computers to be accurate they have to "think" exactly a certain number of times every second, and the clock chip's speed dictates how fast the CPU operates. Therefore, if the clock goes a certain speed then the CPU must go that same speed. Otherwise, the CPU won't work. That was the law until the DX2 and DX4 came on the scene (see below). Obviously, the CPU isn't the whole computer. The CPU must communicate with the disk drives, monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc. and this is called External processing. When the CPU does arithmetic operations, decision making, logical operations, etc. it is doing what is called Internal processing. Remember this and it will all come together in the paragraphs below. Shortly after the 486 introduction, Intel introduced a new chip called an "Overdrive" processor. The Overdrive processor was designed to be used with computers that have 486 SX CPUs and the end result is an increase in performance. For example: If I place an Overdrive processor into a 486 SX-25Mhz (you must have an Overdrive processor socket) then when the computer does arithmetic operations, decision making, logical operations (remember this is called Internal processing), these operations are done at twice (50Mhz) the clock speed of the original 486 SX-25 (25Mhz). Therefore, Externally the computer runs at the same speed (25Mhz), but Internally the computer runs at 50Mhz. This doubling of the computer speed is called "Clock Doubling"; therefore, the Overdrive processor is referred to as a "clock-doubler" processor. The net effect is that the Overdrive processor does everything at least as quickly as a 486 SX-25, and many operations twice as fast! Overall, the Overdrive processor will speed up your computer by about one-third to one-half. Again, shortly after Intel introduced the Overdrive processor (Are you noticing a pattern here?) it introduced a CPU called a DX2. The DX2 is nothing more than a 486 DX and an Overdrive processor combined into one processor. The major benefits of a DX2 are that you get the benefits of an Overdrive processor (the clock doubling) at a lower cost since the 486 DX and Overdrive processors are cheaper when built together rather than purchased separately. In 1993, Intel introduced "clock tripled" processors that are entire processors, just like the DX2s, but run at triple the speed of the original clock speed. For Example: a 486 DX4-75 runs at a clock speed of 25Mhz Externally and 75Mhz Internally. Intel calls this "clock triplers", but their name for the CPU is DX4. If you are trying to figure out why the name and number don't match; it's because of a lawsuit a few years back. Pentium CPUs also use different Internal and External speeds, but because this was built into the CPU from the start, it has considerably less of an impact compared to the 486 CPUs. Therefore, this is not something you need to be concerned with when purchasing a Pentium based computer. Intel (and several other companies) have introduced Pentium Overdrive processors designed to be installed into a 486 computer and are suppose to give a 486 computer the same speed and power of a Pentium based computer. However, in my experience they don't really do the job so I don't recommend you even consider these types of Overdrive processors. These Pentium Overdrive processor are expensive enough that you could almost buy a real Pentium CPU and motherboard to go into your 486 computer. ---------- CHAPTER 4 RAM Random Access Memory (also called RAM) is what the computer uses to remember things it is working on at any one moment in time. For example: Let's say you think of two numbers and you add those two numbers in your head. You haven't forgotten the original two numbers, and now you have a third number (the two numbers added together) in your head. This is similar to how computer memory (RAM) works. RAM is referred to in a number of "Megabytes" so you'll hear or see it written as some number of megabytes of memory (or RAM). However, sometimes manufacturers abbreviate the word "Megabytes" to MG, MB or Meg. Most people don't consider RAM an important part of buying a computer. This is probably due to the fact that they don't understand what a huge difference the amount of RAM the computer has can make on performance. When purchasing a new computer, try to think ahead (remember Chapter 1) and determine your current and future needs. Buy the amount of RAM you will need in the future (about 1 year) and not what you need today. Why? Simple... the general rule of thumb regarding RAM is "you can never have too much". However, it is very easy to have too little. Having the right amount of RAM (or more) greatly improves your computer's performance when running large programs (DOS or Windows based). For example: Windows performance can be increased by 25 percent or more by simply having the right amount of RAM. Only having 4 megabytes, however, is not considered enough these days because most programs need more RAM. The ideal amount of RAM to buy is 12 megabytes simply because most programs need that much RAM to run at acceptable speeds. Having 8 megabytes will work for most computers, but having 12 megabytes will provide a 10%-20% increase in speed (especially when using Microsoft Windows or Windows 95 - see Chapter 11 for more information). If you will be running multiple programs (at once) then 16 megabytes makes more sense. If you buy a laptop or notebook computer, intend to run it from the internal battery, and run large programs then you should consider buying it with even more RAM than you would buy for a comparable desktop computer. The reasoning is simple; larger programs (especially Microsoft Windows based programs) access the internal hard disk drive (for more information see Chapter 5) more often and will cause the battery to run down faster. If your laptop or notebook computer has more RAM, then more of the program can be loaded into RAM at once, therefore, eliminating the need to access the hard disk drive as often and extending battery life. Memory Types RAM chips used to be sold as individual chips, but today several RAM chips are soldered together onto a plug-in board called a module. This RAM module is called a SIMM (Single In-line Memory Module). SIMMs come in two basic designs: an older design that has 30 connector pins and a newer design that has 72 connector pins. Each computer is designed to use one or the other of these SIMM designs. When looking at new computers, only buy a computer that uses the newer 72 pin SIMM design. It is less expensive and still superior in design to the 30 pin SIMM design so you'll get better SIMMs and pay less for them. SIMMs come in several difference speeds. The most common speed is called 70 nanoseconds (ns). The rule in RAM is the lower (or smaller) the nanosecond number, the faster the RAM will operate. Therefore, a 60 ns SIMM is faster than a 70 ns SIMM. Don't buy a computer that has SIMMs slower than 70 ns (greater than 70 ns such as 80 ns), because they'll be too slow to work with today's fast CPUs (for more information see Chapter 3). Some manufacturers are even including 60 ns SIMMs at no extra charge. This is a bonus for you because your SIMMs will likely work with the next generation of CPUs. ---------- CHAPTER 5 Disk Drive Every computer must have some way of adding new software to the computer, saving something you've worked on, (like a word processing document) and in general storing the software the computer needs to operate. This is where "computer disk drives" come in. Disk drives are used to store data about anything you want and this data can be changed at anytime. Therefore, when the computer is turned off, whatever you wanted to save isn't lost, and is still there the next time you turn the computer on. There are several different types of disk drives such as Floppy Disk Drives, Hard Disk Drives, and CD-ROM drives (CD-ROM drives are discussed in Chapter 10 - Multi-Media). A Floppy Disk is a thin piece of magnetic plastic surrounded by another piece of non-magnetic plastic. The floppy disk was invented some twenty years ago as a way of reliably storing computer data and information. Floppy disks require a "Floppy Disk Drive" to be written to, read from, or erased, but the actual floppy disk can be removed from the floppy disk drive at anytime. Since the floppy disk can be removed from the floppy disk drive, it can easily be used on multiple computers to share information between computers. Since the first floppy disks were so large (over a foot in diameter) and were so thin, they tended to sag or "flop" over when being handled. Therefore, as you may have guessed, they were named "floppy diskettes". Originally "diskette" was the correct name, but over the years people shorted the name to "disk" so now both "disk" and "diskette" are considered correct. Through the years, because of their ease of use, floppy disks have been used on virtually every computer made, and are still widely used today. Due to this popularity, manufacturers have continued to improve the floppy disk (and their drives) so today, floppy disks are far superior to floppy disks of the earlier days. For example: Floppy disks are now considerably smaller than older style disks (down to 3 inches wide). Modern floppy disks can now hold thousands of pages of typed information (like in a word processing document) while floppy disks from those early years could only hold a few typed pages. Newer floppy disk drives can also read, write, erase considerably faster than those early disk drives. When IBM developed floppy disks (and their disk drives) for use in their first Personal Computers (PC) they used a floppy disk that was 5 inches wide. This size has been popular ever since, but in recent years has lost popularity and is not even included on most new computers. Sony was the company that caused the lost popularity in 5 floppy disks because they developed a smaller disk that can also hold more information. It is called a 3 inch disk and is unlike other floppy disks because instead of a soft, flexible outer cover (like used on 5 disks) they use a hard plastic cover. The 3 disk is still considered a floppy disk, but it is literally no longer "floppy". As a result of this, people sometimes confuse the 3 floppy disk with a "hard disk drive". See Figure 5a below. We'll cover hard disk drives later. Figure 5a - Examples of 3 and 5 inch disks. New computers will likely come with one 3 floppy disk drive. As I said before, since the 5 floppy disks have lost popularity, most manufacturers won't include a 5 floppy disk drive unless you request it and pay extra for it. Some software manufacturers have even stopped selling their software on 5 floppy disks. Currently floppy disk manufacturers still sell four different types of floppy disks. Of these four types there are two sizes (5 and 3 ) and four different amounts of information the floppy disks can hold. This sounds harder than it really is so let me explain. Every floppy disk has a certain "density", and that means how much data that floppy disk will hold. Just like a 5 gallon bucket will hold more water than a 1 gallon bucket; a "high density" (also known as HD) floppy disk will hold more information than a "low density" floppy disk. All new floppy disk drives are considered "high density", which means they can use a floppy disk that is considered "high density". In addition, high density floppy disk drives can use low density floppy disks. The low density floppy disk will still hold less than a high density floppy disk, but you can use them with your floppy disk drive. You cannot, however use a high density floppy disk in a low density floppy disk drive. To make matters a little more confusing sometimes floppy disks are referred to by their storage capacity rather than by their size. Consider the following chart: Disk Size Disk Density Disk Capacity Number of full, typed pages 5 Low density 360 kilobytes 68 pages 5 High density 1.2 megabytes 229 pages 3 Low density 720 kilobytes 138 pages 3 High density 1.44 megabytes 276 pages Note: Currently, there are 3 disks that have a capacity of 2.88 megabytes, but these disks (and the floppy disk drives that use them) are moreexpensive, and not commonly seen in new computers. There is really no reason to buy anything less than high density floppy disks unless you intend to use those diskettes on a computer that can't use high density disks. There is only a small difference in price between high density and low density floppy disks. There is another type of disk drive called a "Hard Disk Drive" (also called a "fixed disk drive"). It is similar to floppy disk drives in several ways such as it can read, write, erase your data. However, that's generally where the similarities end. The hard disk drive is usually hidden inside the computer. The reason it is called a hard disk drive is because the internal disk is made of metal. A hard disk drive does not have removable disks (a few, very select hard drives have removable disks, but these are not common). Virtually every computer sold today comes with some type of hard disk drive. You may be asking yourself "If I have a floppy disk drive then why do I need a hard disk drive?" Here's your answer. The average hard disk drive to come with a computer today holds 740 megabytes to 1 gigabyte (1024 megabytes). Compare that to the 1.44 megabytes one floppy disk will hold. The average program today will require at least six megabytes. Are you starting to see the problem here. WordPerfect 6.1 for Windows comes on eleven 1.44 megabyte floppies and will not work until it is installed on a hard disk drive. Hard disk drives have been able to keep up with the current program sizes, but floppy disk have not. Therefore, virtually all of the software you can buy today must be installed on your hard disk drive. Besides the obvious advantage in the amount of information a hard drive can hold compared to a floppy disk, there is another important advantage. The average hard drive can read, save, and erase your information up to 100 times faster than a floppy disk drive so you're spending less time waiting on the computer. Hard disk drives have a variety of capacities (just like floppy disks) and the average hard drive sold today is 740 megabytes to 1 gigabyte. In the last few years, the prices of hard disk drives has fallen dramatically while their capacities have gone through the roof. Having a 1 gigabyte hard drive on a personal computer even 5 years ago would of been totally unheard of. This trend of lower prices and higher capacities is continuing so in the next few months the average capacity of a hard drive sold with new computers will be either 1.2 or 1.6 gigabytes. If you feel you need even more capacity than that, larger drives are available and have over 2.0 gigabytes. There has always been competition in the market place for companies to make faster, higher capacity, physically smaller hard disk drives. Therefore, a number of different types of hard disk are available such as Enhanced IDE (EIDE), IDE and SCSI (pronounced Enhanced I-D-E, I-D-E and scuzzy). There are actually several types of SCSI hard drives, but since most people aren't likely to ever use SCSI, I'm not going to discuss them. Now I know what you're thinking "What in the world do these letters mean?" That's not important, but what's important is virtually every new computer being sold now uses either an EIDE or an IDE type of hard disk drive. When you're out looking at computers, ask if the computer has an IDE or EIDE hard drive, because that will give you a clue to how "up-to-date" the computer and the manufacturer are. EIDE is a newer and faster version of IDE, and has been available for the past several years. There is no cost difference between an EIDE and IDE hard drive made by the same manufacturer for the same capacity drive. There is, however, a 10-40 percent difference in how much or how fast the drive can do something. Therefore, you definitely want an EIDE hard drive, and not an IDE hard drive. ---------- CHAPTER 6 Monitor Computer Monitors (also called Monitors) are similar to televisions because they both display images on a screen, but that's where the similarity ends. Televisions are allowed to be less exact in how they display information on the screen, because the images you see on television aren't nearly as complicated as the images a monitor must handle. Monitors are used more than any other part of a computer, yet many people treat them as an afterthought when purchasing a computer. Don't! Regardless of what you're doing on your computer, you're staring at the monitor. Therefore, shop for a good monitor that's easy to look at and won't cause eye strain. You'll be thankful you did. Size Monitors come in various sizes usually ranging from 14" to 21" and are usually referred to by their size. For example: most people have 14" SVGA color monitors. The size of a monitor is based on the diagonal distance from one corner of the monitor tube to the other (see Figure 6a). This doesn't mean the visible part of the monitor tube, but rather the actual corner of the tube. Therefore, you may see a monitor that is labeled as 14", but the visible part of the tube is less than 14". In monitors, this is perfectly normal, and almost every manufacturer labels or sizes them this way regardless of the size. So when you're looking for monitors, don't be too shocked when your monitor turns out to be a little smaller than the name or label implies. If you're curious, most television manufacturers refer to their television by the size of the display (corner to corner) that is actually showing and not by the tube's actual size. Therefore, a 25" television IS a 25" television while a 25" monitor's viewing area is probably more like a 23" or 24". I would like more computer monitor manufacturers to catch on to this television idea. Usually the larger (and more expensive) monitors come full featured, so in addition to size, you'll usually get more features too. Figure 6a -Example of how monitor size is measured. Dot Pitch The "Dot Pitch" of a monitor is very important because this number indicates how clear the image on your monitor will be. Have you ever adjusted the focus on a camera so it's almost right, but not quite, and the picture doesn't look as good as it could? This is how the dot pitch works. The lower the dot pitch number, the better the image will be. The dot pitch, measured in millimeters, actually indicates how close the dots (that make up the letter or image on the screen) are together. I'll say it again, the lower the dot pitch number, the better the image will be. An average dot pitch is 0.28 while and 0.26 or 0.25 is considered great so pay attention to the numbers (see Caption 6b). Therefore, when you're shopping for monitors (or the monitor that comes with the computer) look at the dot pitch because monitors with a poor or less than average dot pitch will appear out of focus and may cause eye strain. You shouldn't have to pay more for a monitor with an average dot pitch so if they try to sell you a monitor with a less than average dot pitch, walk away. You will thank me later. Caption 6b - What dot pitch do you want and how good are your eyes? How crisp and clear would you like your monitor to be? Dot Pitch Explanation 0.39 - Considered terrible by today's standard. Only Poor Quality monitorshave dot pitches so high! 0.31 - Considered worse than average and visibly noticeable to most people. Avoid it! 0.28 - Considered average for most monitors today. This is acceptable for most people. 0.27 - Considered better than average and more suited for graphical use. 0.26 - Considered much better than average and better suited for more graphical use. 0.25 - Considered far superior to the average, and best suited for indiscriminating taste and highly graphical use. Flat Screen In the last couple of years, monitor manufacturers have begun producing what is called "Flat-Square tube" monitors (also called Flat screen monitors). These tubes are somewhat misnamed because the tube is neither flat nor square, but they appear more so than regular "curved tube" monitors called "Vertically Flat tubes" that are used in most televisions. Fortunately, more manufacturers are using the flat tube design and haven't raised their prices in the process. There are several advantages to flat tube monitors compared to curved tube monitors and they are as follows: - Less glare on the front on the monitor - More accurate colors along the edges or corners of the monitor front - More stable graphics along the edges or corners of the monitor front - A more realistic image (especially with highly graphical images) If you can purchase a flat screen monitor for little or no difference in price then do it. You'll be glad you did, but don't pay a ton extra just for this one feature. Resolution Whether you realize it or not, your television actually displays the image by a combination of vertical and horizontal lines. This is called resolution and all televisions and computer monitors use this to display what you see. Your television has one resolution, and it adjusts everything to that resolution so all the images you see fit nicely on your television screen. However, most computer monitors can display or use many resolutions, and are therefore more flexible to display many different types of images. Higher resolutions (more lines on the screen) give you more detailed images while lower resolutions give you less detailed images. When you're looking at resolutions they are usually written as horizontal lines by vertical lines (640 x 480, 800 x 600, 1024 x 768). When it's time to shop for a monitor (or the monitor that comes with your computer) you'll need to pay attention to what resolution the monitor can handle. The more resolutions your monitor can handle, the more flexible it will be to do the things your want. For example: Kodak has been advertising it's "Photo-CD" products that allow you to display photographs you've taken to be displayed on your computer monitor. This process requires higher resolutions, otherwise you're pictures won't look as good. If your monitor can't handle the resolution Kodak needs then you're out of luck. The average 14" monitor will support the following resolutions: Remember it's written as horizontal lines by vertical lines (number x number). 640 x 480 800 x 600 1024 x 768 If the monitor you're looking at doesn't support these resolutions, then walk away. Better quality monitors are now supporting even higher resolutions such as 1280 x 1024 or 1600 x 1280. These resolutions pack so much information on the screen at once that you will usually need a larger (17" or above) monitor to appreciate the fine detail you'll see. SVGA vs VGA When shopping for monitors you're likely to see the letters VGA and SVGA written everywhere. These letters simply indicate the type of monitor it is and what resolutions the monitor is capable of displaying. VGA (Video Graphics Array) is a standard that IBM developed some years ago for displaying information on the monitor in a certain way and resolution. VGA by default uses a resolution of 640 x 480. SVGA (Super Video Graphics Array) is a newer standard based on VGA that gives you a higher resolution of 800 x 600. SVGA is considered absolutely the bare minimum for any monitor buyer these days. Today's monitors can handle resolutions higher than the SVGA resolution (800 x 600), but they're still called SVGA. Cost The following indicates the price range one should expect to see when purchasing a monitor. Remember, better monitors generally cost more and have more features, and nicer controls. The larger the monitor is, the harder it is to manufacture and thus the more you pay for it. Low-End High-End 14" $150 $500 15" $170 $600 17" $650 $2,000 20"/21" $1,800 $4,500 Non-Interlaced vs. Interlaced Monitors, just like televisions, create an image on the screen by firing electron beams at the front of the screen in horizontal lines across the screen from top to bottom. An Interlaced display creates a full image on the screen in two passes, creating the even lines first and then going back to the top to create the odd lines. This is O.K. for graphics since they constantly change, but it's not very good for text or numbers (like in a word processor). A newer standard called Non-Interlaced creates the entire image (all lines) on the screen at once, and makes the text and numbers appear cleaner and easier to read. Non-Interlaced monitors are considered superior so when choosing a monitor, make sure it's non-interlaced. You may have to pay $10 or $15 more for a non-interlaced monitor, but it will be worth it. Most monitors 17" or larger should automatically be non-interlaced, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Vertical Refresh Rate The Vertical Refresh Rate (also called a vertical scan rate) indicates the number of full screens the monitor can "paint" in one second. The vertical refresh rate is often written in terms of Hz such as 72Hz. Since most humans can perceive a "flicker" effect (like a strobe light) when the vertical refresh rate drops to or below 60Hz, you should buy a monitor that can display a minimum of 72Hz in every resolution (at least the standard three resolutions mentioned above). Most monitors today will do this, but not all, so be careful. The net effect of using a monitor with a vertical refresh rate of 60 Hz or less is sometimes headaches and eyestrain. Green Monitors In the past several years there has been a flurry of interest in the area of "Green" technology (sometimes called Energy Star). Green is a "catch all" term for computer equipment that when not being used (for a certain amount of time) will automatically power down to conserve electricity (called Green mode). The "green" part comes in when you consider that using less power is healthier for the environment (and your wallet). Currently, you can buy green computers and green monitors (not to mention green laser printers). Most of the new monitors being sold are green compatible, and when I say green compatible I mean the monitors have the ability to power down. Keep in mind the computer has to tell them when it's time, because the monitor has no other way of knowing. Green computers are designed to tell the monitor when it's time to shut down and in addition most green computers can themselves go into green mode. If you never leave your computer on while it's not being used then this may be no big deal, but if you leave it on all the time then this could save you money on your electric bill, help the environment, and extend the life of your computer. ---------- CHAPTER 7 Printer A printer is a device that transfers information from a computer onto paper, much like a typewriter. There are currently three main types of printers available on the market (dot matrix, inkjet, and laser) and you need to decide which printer will best fit your needs. Dot matrix printers have been around since the 1970's and have been widely used. Instead of printing like a typewriter, a dot matrix printer uses a row of pins to print the characters on the paper (see the dot matrix example in Figure 7a). In an effort to increase the quality of the print from a dot matrix printer, manufacturers have increased the number of pins on the print head. This allows the printer to print the dots (that make up the letter or symbol) closer together so it looks more like a quality typewriter's print. Another method widely used by manufacturers is to print the same line twice and this gives a darker, more realistic look to the print. Unfortunately, of all printer types, dot matrix printers are the loudest, so if noise levels are important then don't buy a dot matrix printer. Dot matrix printers generally cost between $50 to $300. In the late 1980's another new kind of printer technology called inkjet hit the market. An inkjet printer actually "squirts" the ink onto the paper, and the print looks more professional than a dot matrix printer (see Figure 7a), but not as good as a laser. An inkjet's print is almost as good as a laser's print, but if you compare the two side by side, the laser's print will be cleaner and smoother (less jagged edges). On these printers, you'll see prices from $150 - $1,500. A few years ago, Canon developed a new form of inkjet technology called bubblejet. Since bubblejet printers are actually inkjet printers, I won't elaborate on them further. In the early 1980's Canon developed a new technology and printer called a laser printer. Laser technology allows a printer to place ink (toner) onto paper very much like a photocopier does. This allows very neat and elegant looking text while also allowing a wide use of very fancy fonts, colors and graphics. Unfortunately, until the last several years, the prices for laser printers were fairly expensive. Today, prices are very good ($400-$2,500) and most anyone who can afford a computer can afford a laser printer. Figure 7a - A very close up example of what typical text looks like from each of these types of printers. Most dot matrix printers use what's called "continuous feed" paper. The ends of the paper are simply connected together so it's like one "continuous" sheet of paper. Inkjet and laser printers use single sheets like a photocopier does. If you must print long documents and you want them to look good then I suggest getting a laser printer rather than an inkjet printer. Most laser printers will hold more paper than the typical inkjet printer. This is especially true of the higher-end laser printers that have multiple trays to hold the paper. Most dot matrix printers usually only print black, but some nicer models will print color (with a special printer ribbon). Since the print of a dot matrix is not as clean or clear as other printing technologies (such as inkjet or laser), it is not really suited for color, graphics, etc. It is mainly suited for regular print and lots of it, like long reports, or information that needs to be printed quickly. Most dot matrix printers have some type of fonts (different ways lettering can be displayed) built into the printer, but as usual, more expensive models have more built in fonts. However, since the print capability of a dot matrix printer is limited, don't expect fancy fonts to come with or work with the printer. If you intend to print things that are to look professional (like business letters, a resume, documents, etc.), then a dot matrix printer won't cut it and you'll need an inkjet or laser printer. Inkjets will print color and do a pretty good job at it, but if you want to print graphics (with or without color) then you should use heavier paper. Otherwise, the ink will "bleed" through and saturate the paper (so it looks wrinkled). In Figure 7a, I included a blown-up example of a letter printed on an inkjet printer with paper that is too thin. See how it bled around the letter. Most inkjet printers will print between 1 and 5 pages per minute which is considered slow next to laser printers ability to print between 4 and 16 pages per minute. If you don't need a fast printer, then an inkjet is a good compromise between laser printers and dot matrix printers. Remember though, the print quality is not as good so it must look good and be fast, a laser is the only way to go. Laser printers are the best kind of printer you can buy, but it will cost you more than a dot matrix or inkjet printer, especially if you want to print color. Color laser printer prices have continued to fall these last few years, but the cheapest color lasers are still around $4,000-$5,000. Canon has licensed other companies to use their laser technology so you'll see a number of manufacturers offering laser printers. When comparing laser printers, pay close attention to the amount of memory (RAM), fonts, expandability (adding more fonts or RAM), and warranty. This is where manufacturers cut corners. Less expensive laser printers will generally print 4 to 6 pages per minute while more expensive models will print 8 to 16 pages per minute. Faster printing laser printers can be beneficial if you print a lot, so you must decide what you think you'll print. The more expensive models also generally come with more memory and fonts which allows you to print better graphics and more impressive looking things. You must remember that if you intend to print graphics or charts, then the printer must have enough memory to do it. Otherwise, you will continue to receive errors from the printer saying you don't have enough memory. Therefore, when buying a laser printer, look ahead and anticipate whether you'll want to print graphics or charts and either buy the a model that has the memory already or a model where you can add the memory at a later time. Most lower end laser printers don't give you the option of adding more memory later, so be careful. Laser printers use "toner cartridges" while inkjet printers use "ink cartridges" and dot matrix printers use "ink ribbons". Each of these types of "ink" has to be purchased for the specific printer you own and the cost can vary greatly. For example: a typical ink ribbon for a dot matrix printer should cost between $15 to $20 while a toner cartridge for a laser printer should cost between $70 to $90. Inkjet cartridges fall in the middle at $20 to $30. ---------- CHAPTER 8 Modem A modem (short for MODulation/dEModulation) translates "computer language" to and from something your normal telephone will understand so you can use the telephone line to talk to another computer. Modems have grown in popularity during the last decade due to a number of reasons such as lower prices, higher speeds, smaller sizes and the number of people and businesses using on-line services (like the Internet, CompuServe or America On-Line). If you want to call the office with your computer or connect to any on-line services, then you must have a modem. Modems are classified by how fast (how much) they can send or receive data in a second and this is called the modem's kbps (KiloBits Per Second). For example: a 28.8kbps (also written 28,800bps) modem transfers (sends or receives) 28,800 bits per second. 28.8kbps is currently the fastest standard two-way modem speed available, and it is what you would want in a modem. If you're going to buy a modem then your best bet is to buy a V.34 (28.8kbps) modem and not a V.FC (28.8kbps) modem. Why? Simply because a V.FC modem may not be able to connect to everyone you want to call. Now I don't mean a V.34 modem that also supports V.FC. That's fine. You simply don't want a modem that only supports V.FC and not V.34. If you want more detail on why V.FC is bad then read the following paragraph. In 1993 a new modem standard called V.FC (Fast Class) emerged and was at that the time the fastest standard available, but it was and still is a complete disaster. V.FC was the early version of what is now called V.34. While the V.34 standard was evolving, and long before it ever became a "true world-wide" accepted standard, many modem manufacturers jumped the gun and introduced their own version of V.FC. Here's the kicker; since each modem manufacturer used their own version (and set of rules) to develop their V.FC modem, most of the V.FC modems wouldn't properly work with other V.FC modems from other manufacturers. The whole reason for standards is so the modem from one manufacturer can talk to the modem from another manufacturer. V.FC is called a standard, but it never really was, since very few modem manufacturers agreed on the specifics of the V.FC standard. In the summer of 1994, the V.34 standard was finally complete and accepted by the world as a true standard. Since that time, most of the modem manufacturers that developed V.FC modems have gone back and updated them so they work correctly with the V.34 standard. Most V.FC modem manufacturers have or are still offering some type of upgrade so users that own V.FC modems can get V.34 modems. If you're in the market for a modem, don't buy a V.FC modem because as I explained above; you'll have problems! Consider some of the following reasons why V.34 is superior to V.FC: -V.34 modems are cheap these days so the few bucks that you would save bybuying anything less wouldn't be worth the trouble you're likely to encounterwith other modems that won't work with V.FC modems. -V.34 performs better (can send or receive at a faster pace) on noisy phonelines (modems like quiet phone lines). -V.34 can adjust faster to adverse phone line conditions (your daughter picksup the phone while your modem is dialed into the office computer). -You can count on other V.34 modems being compatible with your V.34 modem. Each modem speed (like 28.8kbps) requires some type of communications standard behind it (like V.34) so each modem knows what "language" it is supposed to speak and understand. These types of standards have been around since the very first modems were invented. Figure 8a shows most of the more recent standards, and what speeds (how fast the modem can send and receive) are possible when using these standards to talk to another modem. New computers are likely to have some type of modem included, but beware because not all modems are equal (see Figure 8a). Several years ago modem manufacturers started building fax computer cards and modem cards into one card. The result was the ability to also send and receive faxes with your computer in addition to the modems capability. It was a great idea and I'm very happy most modem manufacturers still do this today. Unfortunately, several computer manufacturers will offer with their computers a 2400/9600 fax/modem and that means the modem runs at a maximum of 2400bps while the fax portion run at a maximum of 9600bps. Don't be impressed because that modem is only worth five bucks. By today's standards, that fax/modem stinks! The average fax/modem today runs at 14.4kbps/14.4kbps (also written as 14.4/14.4) and the better cards are 28.8kbps/14.4kbps. 14.4kbps is currently the highest fax speed. Comparing the times required to transfer one document file on a 2400bps modem verse the same document on a 28.8kbps modem shows the 28.8kbps modem can transfer (or receive) that document in 1/12 the time. Yes, really! Just imagine the difference in your waiting and long distance charges! The difference in price between average fax/modems (14.4/14.4) and the better 28.8/14.4 fax/modems isn't more than about $50 so if you're in the market for a modem, do yourself a big favor and get the 28.8kbps version. You'll be happy you did. Modems often have what's called a theoretical throughput number. Don't get fooled by this. This number is simply the absolute largest possible, under perfect conditions (Are your phone lines perfect? I think not!) number of kbps the modem can send or receive. The number is almost always four times the rated kbps of the modem. In other words: * A 2400bps modem has a theoretical send and receive ability of 9600bps. * A 14.4kbps modem has a theoretical send and receive ability of 57.6kbps. * A 28.8kbps modem has a theoretical send and receive ability of 115.2kbps. I've listed below the minimum features you should expect from your modem. Since a 14.4kbps modem is considered an average modem these days, and you really should be buying a 28.8kbps modem (because of the speed and small price tag), I've only included features for these two modem speeds. Somewhere on the fax/modem box you should see a list of the supported standards (the things listed below). If you're buying the computer, and it has a fax/modem in it then ask the computer dealer if the modem is compatible with the following list of standards. If it isn't then you don't want it! Figure 8a - The vertical axis shows the standards that allow the modems to operate at the speeds shown on the horizontal axis. The speeds on the horizontal axis are all in bps and not in kbps (ie. 28,800bps is the same as 28.8kbps). V.32terbo is another standard that never caught on (ie. you don't want it!), but I included it to show the speed difference between it and V.34. A list of the minimum features you should expect from a new fax/modem: 14.4kbps 28.8kbps Modem section: V.32bis V.34 V.32 V.32bis V.42bis V.32 V.42 V.42bis V.22bis V.42 V.22 V.22bis MNP 2-5 V.22 16550 UART * MNP 2-5 16550 UART * Fax section: Class 1 & 2 Class 1 & 2 V. 17 (Group III) V. 17 (Group III) V.29 V.29 V.27ter V.27ter V.21 V.21 Note: A UART is a special chip which allows the modem or fax to operate at certain speeds. Currently, a 16550 UART is the best (fastest) and what your 14.4kbps or 28.8kbps MUST have. If it has a 16450 then don't buy it regardless of what they tell you! Even before the V.34 standard had been approved, speculation had already started on how modems could be made to go even faster. As I (and a number of other people) predicted, this came about in the form of V.34bis. V.34bis is based on V.34, but has been "tweaked" to deliver up to 33.6kbps (compared to 28.8kbps with V.34) and has just recently become available on the market. In fact, only a few modem manufacturers currently support it. Since V.34bis is expected to become an accepted standard, I have included it in Figure 8a. Remember, the faster the modem then the faster you can send or receive files, messages, etc. This is true only if your modem is talking to a modem just as fast as it is. Consider Figure 8b. Figure 8b - This figure shows the calculated time and cost of transmitting a 1 megabyte file from New York to San Francisco. Notice how much quicker and cheaper it is to use a 28,800bps modem compared to the 2,400bps modem. Note: This is a generalization because actual throughput depends on the compressibility of your file and telephone rates may vary by carrier. The data in this graph originally appeared on the back of a TWINCOM 14.4DFi fax/modem box. ---------- CHAPTER 9 Mouse The mouse is a small, hand-held, electronic device that controls the movement of the cursor on a computer screen. The mouse sends signals to the computer as it moves across a surface, and the computer software interprets the signals as cursor movements and button presses. The mouse was originally developed in 1963 by Doug Engelbert at Stanford Research Institute. It was intended for use with Engelbert's Augment computer, but really grabbed attention when it was later used by Xerox, Apple (Macintosh) and then Microsoft (see Figure 9a). Figure 9b - An example of atypical Logitech 3- button mouse . Figure 9a - An example of a Microsoftmouse (with two buttons). For the mouse to work with a software program, that program must be written to understand the signals sent to it from the mouse. The mouse works by placing a small arrow on the screen that the user controls by moving the mouse around on a surface and by pressing the mouse's buttons. The mouse has really become most popular for use with what is called a "Graphical User Interface" (see Chapter 11 - Software) for more information on GUI) and it generally allows quicker responses and greater (easier) control. For example: If you want to tell the computer "YES", rather than type it, you simply click (with the mouse) on a box (called Yes) and you're done. It is also great for use with drawing and graphics programs where the keyboard just doesn't give the same ease of use. About fifteen years ago, another type of pointing device called a trackball was also invented. A trackball is kind-of-like a mouse that is sitting upside down (see Figure 9c). Rather than move the mouse around a surface (and thus the ball inside the mouse), the user moves the ball (which is exposed) with their hand. A mouse is not superior to a trackball and vice-versa. It really comes down to user preference. In 1991, a device called a "track-mouse" was invented which is really a combined mouse and trackball. The track-mouse was designed and intended for use with laptop computers that don't always have room for a regular mouse to be used. Figure 9c - An example of a typical trackball. The buttons are on the other side of the ball in this figure. You may see a mouse that has two buttons and others that have three buttons. Why the difference you ask? Simple. When Microsoft developed their version of the mouse, they included only two buttons, but when Logitech (Microsoft's largest mouse manufacturing competitor) designed their version they included three buttons (see Figure 9b). If you're curious, the Apple Macintosh mouse only has one button. Logitech thought that someday, there would be a common use for the third button, but to this day the third button still doesn't have a standard use. If you have a specific need though, that third button can be "programmed" to do special things so it can still be handy. The left and right mouse buttons are very standard and used by all "mouse capable" software. As a result of this difference in the number of buttons, two mouse standards evolved. Microsoft's version is called "Microsoft mouse mode" while Logitech's version is called "PC mouse mode". Most programs will understand both standards and you as a user will probably never know the difference. Today, there really isn't much of a difference in these two mouse standards, so choose a mouse that feels right to you and your hand. If a mouse isn't comfortable to you, then you're not likely to use it or enjoy it. It should feel like an extension of your hand. Unfortunately, there is a large gap between a good mouse and a cheap mouse. A good mouse (like Logitech or Microsoft) is more expensive, but also tends to last longer than a less expensive mouse made by other mouse manufacturers. I hate to say this because I don't want good companies to lose business, but it's easier to find a poorly built mouse than it is to find a quality built mouse. The mouse is definitely one place where it pays to spend the extra $20-$30 because otherwise, you may be buying another mouse in a year compared to three or four years. After six years I'm on my third mouse. The first two were cheap and broke within a year so I went out and bought a more expensive, quality built mouse and have never looked back. Most computer manufacturers today include some type of mouse with the computer. If there is a specific mouse design, manufacturer, color, etc. you want, then tell the dealer, because they will usually be willing to substitute it for you. Quite a few computers come with either an actual Microsoft or Logitech mouse so you can feel safe with these. Unfortunately, companies that try to cut corners will often save money by including a less expensive mouse, so be careful. However, some computer manufacturers include a Microsoft or Logitech mouse with their name on it. For example: Compaq and Dell both sell computers with a Logitech mouse included, but they place their name on it rather than Logitech's. It's the same exact mouse except for the name printed on it. ---------- CHAPTER 10 Multi-Media Multi-Media computers (also called MPCs) are becoming more and more common as their ability grows in popularity. The term Multi-Media isn't an exact phrase, but it generally means the use of graphics and sound on a computer. Since most good sound comes from audio CDS (compact disc), and heavy graphics take up so much space, Multi-Media usually means the computer has a CD-ROM drive. If you want to take advantage of the thousands of available multi-media software titles that mix graphics, sound, and video, then you should buy a multi-media computer. If you already own a non-multi-media computer, kits are sold that upgrade your existing computer to a multi-media computer. When you're buying a multi-media computer, don't be afraid of spending more money to get superior multi-media ability. I'm not talking about spending more for the computer itself, but spending more to get better multi-media parts (sound board, speakers, CD-ROM drive, etc.). This will give you a better sounding system with smoother graphics. Now, obviously, if sound is more important to you then you can spend more for the sound card itself and get an average CD-ROM drive or vice-versa. Most computer dealers will allow you to tell them exactly what you want and don't. CD-ROM drives are like audio CD players because they will also play your favorite audio CDS, but in addition they will read what's called a CD-ROM disc. CD-ROM is short for Compact Disc-Read Only Memory. In English this means it's a CD that can only be read from and not written to like a hard disk drive or floppy disk. CD-ROMs cannot be used in audio CD players, because of the way the CD- ROM is made and the fact they contain data (like floppy disks) and not music. That doesn't mean that there may not be music on the CD ROM, only that the music on the CD-ROM is specifically written so it can only be read by CD-ROM drives. For a computer to make sound, some kind of "Sound card" is required and these cards can almost always be found in Multi-Media computers. However, not all sounds cards are created equal. Two companies (Creative Labs, Inc. and Adlib, Inc.) have really set most of the standards in the industry. Therefore, most companies make their programs compatible with these two company's sound standards. When you're looking for sound cards, look for compatibilities developed by these companies . The following shows two sound cards (one low end and one high-end), their features and prices. Low-End High-End Sound Blaster Pro compatible Sound Blaster Pro compatible Adlib compatible Sound Blaster 16 compatible 8-bit only sound Adlib compatible 8-bit bus connector 8 & 16-bit sound FM Synthesis MIDI support 16-bit bus connector poor to fair sound quality 15+ voices Average Price: $25-$70 Wavetable MIDI support CD (IE. Great) quality sound Average Price: $70-$700 CD-ROM drives come in several speeds and obviously, the faster the drive, the faster it can retrieve data from the CD-ROM, so you're not slowed down by the CD-ROM drive reading the disc. This is especially true when dealing with heavy graphics and animation (being read from a CD-ROM). If the drive is too slow then the graphics or animation will appear choppy instead of "fluid" like images on your television do. The very first CD-ROM drives are called Single speed drives because they read the data on a CD-ROM and the music on an audio CD as the same speed (ie. one speed or Single speed). A year or so later, Double speed CD-ROM drives hit the market. They are the same as single speed CD-ROM drives with respect to reading the music on an audio CD, but they read the data from a CD-ROM at "Double" the speed of a single speed drive. Triple speed drives read a CD-ROM at "Triple" the speed of a single speed drive and I will bet that you can guess that a Quad speed drive reads the CD-ROM at Quadruple the speed of a single speed drive. This trend remains consistent through today's fastest CD-ROM drives, the 12X (12 times) speed drives. A few manufacturers have released what are called 4.4, 4.5 and 6.7 speed drives. These are actually Quadruple and 6X speed drives that have been "tweaked" to run faster than typical Quadruple or 6X speed drives. For example, a 4.5 speed drive can read 675 kilobytes of data per second, while a typical Quadruple speed drive can read 600 kilobytes of data per second. These drives costs a little more than typical Quadruple or 6X speed drives, so if you can get one for the same price as a Quadruple or 6X speed drive, go for it. Otherwise, your money is better spent on a 6X, 8X or faster drive. Figure 10a shows the difference between various speed CD-ROM drives. Normally, CD-ROM drives have their speed measured in how many kilobytes per second (KB/sec) of data they can read from a CD-ROM. Displaying graphic animation using a single speed drive (at 150KB/second) would look very choppy while animation on a 8X or faster speed drive would look very smooth. Also, loading programs from a single speed drive will be slower than from a higher speed drive. MIDI (short for Musical Instrument Digital Interface) is a standard designed to allow a computer (through a MIDI compatible sound card) to control digital musical instruments. For example: electric drums, synthesizers, keyboards, and digital mixers can be controlled with a computer and this allows a great deal of power in mixing and editing music. A number of bands use this technology to help them when they perform in concert and are recording new songs. Multi-media computers have a lot of other uses (besides those mentioned above) both in the business world and at home. They allow playing, editing, and recording of any type of sound or video to or from the computer. For example: Since I'm a Star Trek fan, I have all sorts of Star Trek sounds and voices on my computer just to make the computer more interesting and less routine. One feature that largely separates the superior sound cards from the inferior sound cards is the type of MIDI (FM synthesis or Wavetable synthesis) it supports. Wavetable synthesis is the superior type of MIDI. Therefore, if you are a composer or just serious about better sound, then get a sound card that has wavetable synthesis MIDI support. Wavetable synthesis is essentially a stored bank of sampled notes recorded from actual acoustic instruments. Wavetable sounds are much more realistic than those created by FM synthesis. Unfortunately, sound boards that support wavetable synthesis are more expensive, but they're worth it. FM synthesis mimics the notes and timbre of instruments using operators or sine waves, and its reproductive powers are limited. Even the most inexperienced listener will immediately identify its tinny sounding notes as those of a synthesizer. Most multi-media computers come with small, inferior speakers that really don't allow the computer to sound its best. If you' want the most out of your multi-media computer then buy better speakers (and don't use the speakers that come with the computer or the multi-media kit). Generally, better speakers are the same type of speakers (except for how they attach to the computer) that you would buy for a home stereo. These speakers cost more, but they are worth it because your computer's sound can now really be heard. ---------- CHAPTER 11 Software Today, just about every IBM or compatible computer comes with a minimum of DOS and Microsoft Windows or Microsoft Windows 95, but more and more manufacturers are including other software packages. For example: Some manufacturers include graphics programs, financial programs, and spreadsheet software. When you're ready to buy, pay attention to what software the computer manufacturer offers. If the manufacturer includes the software you want and would otherwise have to buy, then you've saved yourself some money. However, don't be fooled into thinking you're getting something for nothing because you're not. The price of the software has been included into the price of the computer and more often than not, computer manufacturer pay considerably less for the software than you would if you went to your local computer store. Therefore, it's still a good deal for all involved. Software version numbers Ever since programmers started writing programs, they needed some way for users to be able to understand different variations of the program. One very common way is to number the versions of the program. For example: the first version would be called version 1, the second would be called 2, the third 3 and so on. Some companies take this a step further and include additional version numbers. For example: a company has a program that is version 1 and they make a small change to the program. The company decides the change isn't big enough to call the revised program version 2 so instead they call it version 1.1. If they later make another small change then they call it version 1.2. Even later they make a lot of changes and decide they changed enough to call the newest version 2.0. Almost always, the larger the number is, the newer the software version. Microsoft currently sells MS-DOS version 6.22 and they reached this version number by continuously adding enhancements to MS-DOS. Consider the following and pay close attention to how and why the version numbers change. Microsoft sold version MS-DOS 5.0 several years ago and since that time: 1) They made major enhancements to MS-DOS 5.0 and renamed it to MS-DOS 6.0. 2) Next, they made some minor enhancements to MS-DOS 6.0 and renamed it to MS-DOS 6.2 (yes, they skipped the version number 6.1). 3) Then, they made some very minor enhancements and renamed it to MS-DOS 6.21. 4) Lastly, they made more very minor changes and renamed it to MS-DOS 6.22. Disk Operating System (DOS) Every computer must have some type of software that translates what you want into what the computer can understand; this software is called the Operating System. When you're out looking at computers and they tell you DOS is included, they are simply telling you the computer comes with the required Operating System. You're probably asking yourself "Why would it not come with it?" and the answer is because that Operating System software costs money and some computer manufacturers didn't use to include it because of that extra cost. Currently, three main companies produce Disk Operating Systems (DOS) for IBM and compatible computers (IBM, Microsoft and Novell). Each company designs their version a little differently so it will look and act a little different, but still provide all the required features of a Disk Operating System. Each company also has its own unique numbers for its version of DOS and the most recent versions are as follows (as of late 1995): Novell DOS version 7.0 Microsoft DOS version 6.22 IBM PC-DOS version 7.0 If a manufacturer includes software with the computer, then make sure it is the current version. Some manufacturers still include MS-DOS 6.20 with their computers even though the current version of MS-DOS is 6.22. There are some important enhancements between those versions so always insist on the most recent version of any included software. Be aware though, some manufacturers intentionally buy old versions of software so they can include it with the computer, and make it more appealing to buyers. If you request the current version of that software, they may charge you extra for it. Considering that some included software is better than no software at all, this is a fair deal. Some manufacturers sell their computers with their software "pre-installed". This simply means someone else installed the software for you before you bought the computer. This isn't always a good thing because they may install something you don't want to use or in a way you don't like. These are considerations you must compare to installing the software yourself. The largest disadvantage to pre-installed software is it gives the manufactures a chance (a chance they usually take) to NOT include the original disks or CD-ROMs with the computer. This is a cost cutting measure for them, and they will usually sell you the disks or CD-ROMs for some fee. I have even heard of one manufacturer that doesn't include the software manuals to save money! Consider what happens if you have a hard drive crash and lose all the software on the computer. You have no original disks or CD-ROMs to restore any of the software with. You're in serious trouble. Therefore, insist on getting the original disks or CD-ROMs, even if you must pay for them. Simply because if something can go wrong, it will! Graphical User Interfaces (GUI) Some operating systems (or operating environments) use pictures or graphics rather than words to represent actions (like checking for spelling mistakes). This is called a Graphical User Interface (GUI). The Apple Macintosh computer has always had this type of user interface while until recently, IBM and compatibles have not. Currently, there are several operating systems or operating environments that use this type of user interface such as IBM OS/2, Apple Macintosh System 7, Microsoft Windows, and Microsoft Windows 95. GUIs generally offer a number of advantages such as: - common support for the use of a mouse - use of pull-down menus - use of dialog boxes (it asks you a question and you answer) - all types of data and graphics can be easily mixed together - the support of WYSIWYG This is an acronym for "What You See Is What You Get". The term WYSIWYG, pronounced "wizzy-wig", is used as an adjective to refer to computer programs such as word processors that generate screen images that are identical in position and type appearance to the final printed document. - GUIs are generally easier to use and learn - programs that use a standard GUI tend to look and feel like other programs that are designed to use that same GUI. Therefore, new programs are easier to learn. Microsoft Windows Microsoft Windows (also called Windows) is the most popular and widely used GUI for IBM and compatible computers. It was first introduced back in the mid 1980s and continued to gain strength until 1990 when it really became popular. Today, Windows (one version or another) comes on more than eighty (80) percent of all computers sold world-wide. Windows is covered in more detail later in this chapter. IBM OS/2 IBM OS/2 is a GUI and similar in appearence to Microsoft Windows. The current version of OS/2 is called OS/2 Warp. It was first introduced shortly after Microsoft released Windows, but has taken much longer to become generally accepted, even though it is technically superior to Windows to several ways. For example: - It does not require a separate Disk Operating System (DOS) as previous versions of Windows did (Windows 95 doesn't either). - It will works with programs written to work with Windows (not Windows 95), as well as programs written for OS/2. - It is a more stable GUI (it will "crash" less often) - It requires less of a computer (less RAM, hard drive space, etc.) to do the same work as Windows or Windows 95. The largest draw-back to OS/2 is there are not as many programs written for it as there are for Windows. Understanding How to Read the Names and Versions Microsoft Windows version numbers are confusing to a lot of people. The following quote is from an e-mail posted on the Internet. "What is the highest version of windows? Some say 3.11 or Windows NT. Still others say it's 6.0a. I know all about Word....they still say it's Windows 6.0a though. I had one person say they even had 6.0c." The problem here is this person doesn't understand how to read the name and version of Windows or programs written for the Windows environment. First I'll explain how to read the names of programs written for Windows and then explain what the current versions are. Since there are many kinds of operating systems (DOS, Windows, OS/2, Unix, and System 7), software makers must name the software so people can determine what operating system the software will work with. When you're looking at software, look on the box and you'll see something indicating what operating system the software requires. Here's how to interpret it. If I say "I use WordPerfect for Windows 6.1." I'm actually saying "I use WordPerfect Version 6.1 that is specifically written to work with the Microsoft Windows environment." The 6.1 is actually the WordPerfect version and not the version of Windows being used. I could have also said "I use WordPerfect 6.1 for Windows". This is perhaps the easiest to understand. You may be thinking "Why can't I simply say I use WordPerfect?" You can. However, since there are versions written for DOS, Windows, System 7, etc. and some characteristics are different between these versions, that may not be specific enough. Current versions of Windows There are currently three variations of Windows being sold (Windows, Windows for Workgroups, and Windows 95). Both Windows and Windows for Workgroups are version 3.11, but Windows for Workgroups includes a few extra programs (such as e-mail, scheduler, etc.) for use on a network. Without some type of network, these extra programs aren't much good, so if you don't have a network or foresee having a network in the near future; don't pay the extra money for the Workgroups version. The most recent version of Windows is called Windows 95. Think of it as a Windows version 4.0. Microsoft decided the "official" name of this new version would be Windows 95, because they thought people would better understand the name "Windows 95" compared to "Windows version 4.0". It is superior to previous versions of Windows (Windows and Windows for Workgroups) in several ways. The following is a list of some of the improvements Microsoft made: - it no longer requires a separate DOS - supports 32-bit processing - performs better multi-tasking (running more than one program at once) - adds "Plug and Play" compatibility (Plug and Play is a term that refers to an Operating System that is smart enough to recognize when hardware has been added, removed, or changed inside the computer. It makes all of the necessary changes to itself so everything will work correctly. The whole idea behind Plug and Play is to make it easier for the average person to add, remove or change hardware in the computer. Plug and Play is still very new so it still has some quirks or problems, but these should be resolved as more hardware manufacturers make their hardware Plug and Play compatible. Windows 95 is the only GUI I'm aware of that currently supports Plug and Play, but I'm sure others will have it in time.) Windows 95 currently doesn't have a lot of applications written specifically for it (and it's new features), but more programs are being written everyday. Therefore, this should not be an issue for long. There is also another Windows product called Windows NT (the current version is 3.51), but this IS ONLY intended for use on a network computer and not for home or personal use. The name may be the same, but it's a totally different kind of program and is considerably more expensive compared to Windows or Windows for Workgroups. You will not see Windows NT installed on any of the computers you intend to buy unless you're buying a network. Comparing Software When you're out comparing various software programs (like word processing software) don't compare them based on their version numbers, but rather on their features and abilities. Let me explain. Both Microsoft and WordPerfect make word processing software that are currently called version 6.0. Since both are version 6.0, you must compare programs to see which is a better program, has more features, and is easier to learn, and not the version numbers. The version number doesn't tell you much more than how long the company has been working on it. Word Processing One of the most popular uses for personal computers is word processing. It is an information processing system that relies on automated and computerized typing, copying, filing, dictation, document storage, and retrieval. A word processor is a computer program designed to provide easy manipulation of text. It can be used to write letters and/or documents, while inserting, deleting, and/or changing words, paragraphs, or pages. WordPerfect, Word Star, PC-Write, and Word are popular word processing programs. Spreadsheet A spreadsheet is a computer program that uses a grid to provide a structure for entering, calculating, storing, and organizing information. For example: a spreadsheet could be used for making budgets or keeping track of your bank account balance. VisiCalc, Lotus 1-2-3, Quattro Pro, and Excel are popular spreadsheet programs. Database A database is a computer program that allows similar pieces of data to be linked together in an organized way. For example: a database can be setup to store the name, address and age of all employees at a company. Later, if someone wants to know which employees lives on Elm street or how many employees are over the age of 20, the database would quickly provide that information in an organized way. Database programs are very powerful and can store huge amounts of almost any kind of data. dBASE, FoxBASE, Access, and Clarion are popular database programs. ---------- CHAPTER 12 Protecting your Computer and your Data This is a commonly forgotten area of owning a computer. Unfortunately, the idea never even occurs to most users so that dreaded day comes when something important disappears because of some disaster and the user is left helpless. Fortunately, with a little planning, most disasters can be avoided and recovered from and this is what most users just don't realize. Since there are so many different "disasters" that can occur, I've broken the more frequent disasters and solutions down into sub areas below. Backing-up the Computer The number one precaution a user can take to protect themselves from losing precious data is to simply make a backup of the computer's hard disk. The software needed to make backups has been available by a number of software manufacturers since personal computers came into existence and is relatively inexpensive. In fact, MS-DOS 6.0 (or newer, such as 6.22) comes with the software to make backups (MSBACKUP) so users have no excuse not to make backups. With a backup of the entire hard drive, users can now afford to lose all data from their hard drive (and even lose the hard drive itself), because they have a backup. With a few steps and about an hour or two, the data can be back in place, exactly the way it was before the disaster. Now, isn't that little bit of time backing up the data worth the piece of mind you'll gain? Consider backing up like paying insurance, because every time you make a backup, you pay for insurance. Unfortunately, this is a lesson that most people must learn the hard way, but maybe you'll be different. To make the process a little more understandable, consider that a hard drive has so much space that is used by documents, programs, etc. The backup program figures out how much space is being used and copies all of your documents, and programs to some type of media such as floppy disks or a storage tape. The floppy disks or storage tape(s) can then be stored in a safe place and used again only if you're making another backup or performing a restoration of the data (because your hard drive crashed). There are several ways to backup the data on a hard disk. The most common is to use diskettes to hold the information and depending on the size of the hard drive, this can amount to a few dozen or many hundred diskettes. A faster and more convenient way to backup is to use a tape drive. This is like a disk drive except it uses a tape that looks like a small version of a VCR tape and can only be used for backing up data. Good tape drives sell for $150 to $300 these days and can backup anywhere from 250 megabytes to 850 megabytes per tape. Can you imagine having to use 600 diskettes to backup a hard drive? Neither can most people, which is why tape drives are the obvious choice for computers with hard drives bigger than 100 megabytes. Other advantages of tape drives are they can backup the same data in considerably less time compared to using diskettes, and the tape drive can backup all the data totally unattended (without user interaction). These are some reasons why most businesses use tape drives to backup their precious data. They simply cannot afford to lose data and they must have something that can do the job fast and unattended during the night. When making backups, three or more distinct sets of backup tapes or diskettes should be used. That way if one set gets ruined then there are still two more sets to fall back on. Once the initial full backup is made, partial backups can be made that only backup what data has changed. Using this method will require more time to restore if a disaster occurs, but should be adequate for most users. If you want maximum protection then always do full backups. Remember, your hard drive backup must be kept current, otherwise it isn't protecting you and you're just asking for trouble! When you purchase the computer, ask the dealer to include a tape drive and expect to pay extra for it. If you already have a computer, then consider buying a tape drive because it will give you the added insurance all computer users need. There are less than a dozen tape drive manufacturers, so computer manufacturers buy the same tape drives you see selling in computer stores. Therefore, don't be worried about quality differences between tape drives included with a new computer and the tape drives sold separately in stores. Make sure the tape drive you get (separately or with the computer) can store enough data on one tape to completely backup the entire hard drive. If you want to save money and don't mind having to use several tapes each time you make a complete backup, then you can get a tape drive that won't store as much data on each tape. Viruses Another increasing risk to your data these days is the computer virus. A virus is a computer program that often hides itself from the user so it can do something destructive to your data, programs or documents. For example: one common virus is named Michelangelo because on Michelangelo's birthday, the virus will erase everything on your hard drive! Therefore, having a virus is not something you want and should be avoided at all cost. A number of software makers sell programs called "Anti-Virus" software that will detect and destroy viruses. In fact, MS-DOS 6.0 (or newer, such as 6.22) comes with anti-virus software so again users have no excuse not to check regularly for viruses. Since no program can catch all viruses, having your backup of the entire hard drive is essential. These programs are constantly updated so make sure you keep yours up-to-date. This will help to protect you against newer viruses and keep your virus protection strong. Power Since computers require clean power, the computer should be, if possible, on an electrical circuit that doesn't have other major appliances (air conditioners, refrigerators, heaters, etc.) on it. Circuits that have too many major appliances on it can cause too little power (called brown outs) being available for the computer, and this can cause damage to your computer. Therefore, think ahead of where you will plug your computer in. A great way to combat brown outs or more important, blackouts (total power failure), is to purchase an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS). An UPS is an electronic device that meters the power going to the computer and will supplement (from a battery) that power if it senses there isn't enough power for the computer. The battery inside the UPS is constantly charging so it can instantly jump into action to provide supplemental or full power to your computer. This is advantageous because it can prevent damage to your computer, allow you to properly exit any programs and save anything you may be working on before the power totally goes off. An average UPS will provide 15 to 30 minutes of full power to the computer before its internal battery runs down and usually costs $100-$250. Another device that monitors the power going into the computer is called a surge suppressor. A surge suppressor can detect and sometimes (depending on the strength of the power surge) stop a power surge (spike) and thus prevent damage to your computer. This is one area where you get what you pay for because cheap models cost less than $50 and can't stop much of a surge, but superior models, that cost above $1,000, can stop fairly large surges. Don't get me wrong, any protection is better than no protection, but expect only as much protection as you pay for. A good UPS will usually have a surge suppressor built right into the UPS. If you take everything I've mentioned above into consideration then you're ahead of 70 percent of all the computer users out there and 90 percent less likely to get burned by a disaster. ---------- End of Document .