Nightlife (Overview)
Vienna offers a wealth of evening entertainment, from gambling to jazz to cabaret to symphonies to opera. You'll find everything from pale copies of Latin Quarter establishments, to cozy drop-in spots, to cabaret-and-strip, to out-and-out sex at its rawest and most commercial. Drinks are US$5 and up in most of those places. Admission fees are usually $2 per person. For the latest information on what's happening, consult the Wien Monatsprogramm, free at any tourist office and most hotels.You might enjoy wandering casually through the "Bermuda Triangle," so called because, if you stroll into this quarter of narrow lanes, you could simply vanish forever. It's safe—have no fears—and it's fun. There are taverns, wine bars, and cafés, sometimes called Beisel. Visit Salzamt on Ruprechtsplatz, the Alt Wien and the Oswald & Kalb on Bäckerstr., the Roter Engel on Rabensteig, or any of the joints along Rotenturmstr.
Vienna is famous for its heurigen—the "new wine" or "fresh wine" gardens. The most celebrated (and popular) are in Grinzing, 15 to 25 minutes from the city center. You can take a trolley car out and save money, but be sure to check return departure times. Look for the garland of pine twigs and vine leaves over the door. Until recently you could bring your own cold meat, butter, cheese, and bread if you wished. Now, many heurigen are full-blown restaurants or have their own buffets, and the custom of bringing your own vittles has been restricted to the smallest establishments. Try their old-time specialty, Backhendl. A typical, sound example of the larger meccas is Altes Presshaus, Coblenzlgasse 15, the oldest in Grinzing. There's also the tavern-style Reinprecht a few steps down the street, Hauermandl, Maly, Bachhengl, Weinbottich, the amiable Rode's "Altes Haus," and, over in Sievering, the popular Backhendlstation Martinkovits. Out at Nussdorf, the Hollerl Maria has a good name; in Neustift, Zeiler draws a young crowd and Emminger an older one. Heiligenstadt also has several choices. Perchtoldsdorf is famous for its Brodl wine served in taverns along Brunnergasse. Stammersdorf is noteworthy for its wine gardens in the old style.
In general, Grinzing is the most expensive. Even though it has long and boldly capitalized on itself as a tourist attraction, it remains essentially a charming suburb for after-dark romancers and camaraderie. All heurigen are shut down intermittently, whenever the barrels run out; usually only a buffet and wine are available, with no spirits or beer.