Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore)
When you try to see Florence in your mind's eye, the towering dome of the Duomo di Santa Maria del Fiore is bound to dominate your picture, as it does this spectacular city. One of the largest cathedrals in the world, the building was begun in 1296 and is a composite of many contributing architects. There are 463 steps from the floor of the cathedral to the top of Brunelleschi's distinctive red-tiled dome, the first and largest of its kind built in the Renaissance.In the early 14th century, the guidelines for the new cathedral dedicated to Santa Maria del Fiore were quite clear: Build a church suitable to Florence, bigger and better than the great ones in Siena and Pisa. Florentine pride almost overreached itself; the duomo was so massive that a cupola couldn't be constructed to span the 42-meter (140-foot) opening that resulted. Not since the Roman Pantheon had such a dome been built. Fortunately for Florence, it had the talents of Filippo Brunelleschi on hand in 1417 when the building was completed, save for its roof. The ribbed-style, double-shelled dome that he conceived not only solved the technical problems, but it remains one of the most beautiful in the world, rising magnificently above the bulky duomo, its graceful shape and 55-meter (180-foot) height dominating the city even today. Nearly every monumental dome since has been constructed with Brunelleschi's principles. The elaborate rib vaulting between the two shells of the dome can be observed on a climb up to the lantern for views. Other views can be enjoyed from the lovely campanile begun by Giotto during his term as the duomo architect. The sculpture for the façades of the duomo and campanile have been replaced by copies (the originals are in the museum) and the neo-Gothic façade itself is a confection of the late 19th century that nearly turned the original Pisan-style colored marble into gingerbread.
The interior is a cold contrast to the warm colors of the façade, but the arches above the massive Gothic pilasters soar and the intricate marble floors add interest. High on the wall of the main entrance is a mosaic of the Coronation of the Virgin by Gaddo Gaddi. Flanking it are joyous angel musicians by Santi di Tito, and above a wonderful clock with the four heads of the prophets by Paolo Uccello (1443). The dome itself is decorated with a fresco of the Last Judgment (late 16th century) by Vasari and F. Zaccari. The three apses are separated by sacristy doors over which are enameled terra-cotta reliefs by Luca della Robbia; the fine Resurrection over the north sacristy is an early work in this medium (1442). In the central apse is a delicate reliquary urn by Ghiberti.
Baptistery
This jewelbox of a building, finely patterned in colored marble inlays and with the octagonal shape of a Byzantine royal chapel, dates from the 11th century. Although the baptistery was an early prototype for other Tuscan Romanesque churches, the 15th-century Florentines believed it was even older, surviving from the period when the main gate to the Roman military camp of Florentia stood near this spot. Mistaken as a symbol of Florence's classical past, the church inspired some of the first great works of the Early Renaissance—its bronze doors. Just as Florence was resisting the attacks of the duke of Milan, its powerful banking guild commissioned a competition for a set of bronze doors that would make the citizens proud. Lorenzo Ghiberti and Brunelleschi each submitted bas-reliefs (both now in the Bargello). Ghiberti won and, in 1423, completed the 28 gilded bronze panels with scenes from the New Testament, now seen on the north door. Pleased with the Ghiberti doors, the guild commissioned another pair with scenes from the Old Testament. Deemed worthy to be the Gates of Paradise by Michelangelo, these masterpieces took Ghiberti most of his life to complete, from 1425–52, and copies can be seen on the east door, facing the duomo.
The handsome interior of the baptistery returns you to Byzantine tastes, if a very late evolution of the style. Some of the more intricate floor mosaics date from the early 13th century; the cupola mosaic, The Last Judgment, is later still. Also noteworthy here is the early Renaissance tomb (1429) of the antipope John XXIII, designed by Donatello and executed by Michelozzo. Open Monday–Saturday 1-6 PM and Sunday 9 AM-1 PM.
Address:
Piazza del Duomo
Florence
Italy