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Overview

As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence, or in Italian, Firenze, preserves some of the greatest art from the Western world. Yet, if you expect an idyllic excursion through a city living in the past, you're in for a shock. Florence bustles. It bustles today much as it did during the centuries that its currency was that of Europe, its Medici bank that of the popes, and its merchants the wealthiest capitalists. Its rusticated stone buildings may contain the art of Michelangelo, Raphael, and Leonardo da Vinci—all of whom were working here around 1501—but these Renaissance façades define streets congested with modern activities. As one of the most powerful states in Europe, Renaissance Florence had a population of 100,000. Today the city counts nearly one-half million.

It's very possible to find Florence, and its attendant crowds, summer heat, and pollution, a bit overwhelming. Add to this the stupefaction of so much history and art, and it's possible to leave the city unsatisfied and disappointed. Don't try to see everything in just a couple days. Set yourself an easy schedule, with café breaks and walks along the Arno. Or take a jaunt out to a Tuscan hill town when you realize that you just can't bear to see another Raphael.