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Accommodations (Overview)

Hotels
Hotels in Italy are regulated by the government, and are classified into five categories, indicated by stars. Five-star establishments are considered luxury hotels, while two- and three-star hotels are more traditional pensione. In lower ranked categories, prices largely vary according to whether the room has a private bath and toilet. Lodging in Italy is generally quite expensive. The simplest rooms in hostel-like establishments begin at 40,000 lire (US$26) per person, while rooms at a mid-quality hotel in a good location will begin at around 140,000 lire ($90). The price of a luxury hotel can be astronomical.

The options in the lower price range are quite broad, although major cities rarely have budget-level accommodations that include private baths and safe locations. Although some establishments still have the homey ambience of a pensione and still require meal plans (usually just breakfast), recently mandated upgradings have increased their prices.

As of 1992, hotel prices no longer are government controlled, though there is a maximum tariff that can be charged for specific rooms, which should be posted on the back of the guest room door. Ask to see it if there's a question about the room rate.

Many hotels make it impossible not to take their continental breakfast, so you should ask if it's included in the price. Resorts commonly require meal plans. If you're staying in budget-level or pensione-style accommodations, always make certain that you have both a toilet (toelette) and a bath (bagno privato) or shower (doccia privata) in your room, if that's what you want. Sometimes a request for "bagno privato" brings just one, and not the other. If you're at the hotel, you can simply ask to see the room ("Mi faccia vedere la camera?"), but when writing or calling, specify your choice.

Reservations are always recommended, as far in advance as possible for April through October, Holy Week, and Christmas season. And don't simply reserve "a room"; specify a room with a view or one with twin beds or one with a shower, not a tub, or a quiet interior—whatever you prefer. You'll probably be disappointed if you try to negotiate these details upon arrival. Hotels that don't accept credit cards usually require a one-night deposit to hold the room beyond 6 PM.

Villas
Renting a farmhouse or Renaissance villa, especially when the countryside is Tuscany, is a dream of many. Fortunately, there are many agencies making this possible, not just in Tuscany but from the Lombard Lakes to the Amalfi Coast. They charge a fee, of course, and many recommend that before renting a particular property you ask to speak to a previous tenant. In the U.S., contact At Home Abroad (405 E. 56th St., New York, NY 10022; Tel. 212-421-9165), Posarelli Vacations (180 Kinderkamack Rd., Park Ridge, NJ; Tel. 201-573-9558), or Rent-a-Vacation Everywhere (328 Main St. East, Suite 526, Rochester, NY 14604; Tel. 716-454-6440). In Italy, there are several English-speaking organizations that are well regarded: The Best in Italy (Via Ugo Foscolo 72, 50124 Florence; Tel. 55-223-064, fax 55-229-8912), managed by a contessa and with some of the most luxurious properties in Tuscany; and Solemar (Via Cavour 80, 50129 Florence; Tel. 55-218-112, fax 55-287-157), with hundreds of diverse listings for Tuscany and Umbria.

Hostels
Hostels are not only cheap, they provide wonderful opportunities to meet other travelers from around the world. For the single traveler, the camaraderie found at the hostels and the chance of finding travel companions make many of their inconveniences incidental. There are over 50 hostels in Italy affiliated with Hostelling International. You'll need to be a member of your national hostelling organization to stay at these hostels, or at least to get the best rate. Contact American Youth Hostels (733 15th St. NW, Suite 840, Washington, DC 20005; Tel. 202-783-6161), Hostelling International-Canada, National Office (1600 James Naismith Drive, Suite 608, Gloucester, Ont K1B 5N4; Tel. 613-748-5638), or Associazione Italiana Alberghi per la Gioventud (Via Cavour 44, piano 3, 00184 Rome; Tel. 06-462-342), or your local hostel for membership information. Hostels no longer have any age limits for membership, though some of the hostel rules can be particularly displeasing to couples—such as the separation of sexes into different bunking areas. There also are curfews, daytime closings, restrictions on the length of stay in peak season, and some total closings off-season.

Camping
If you like to camp and already have the equipment, you might enjoy traveling through Italy using the often scenically situated campgrounds that dot its seashores, lakes, and countryside. (The savings you make by camping can be put toward the cost of renting a car to get to the campgrounds!) The facilities vary from the very basic to the very elaborate, with bungalows, hotels, pools, and other recreational facilities. The Italian government rates them and the Touring Club Italiano publishes a directory, Campeggi e Villaggi Turistici in Italia, available in bookstores throughout Italy. Recreational vehicles also can be rented, but reserve way in advance for July and August.